Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
